Meet the Growers Behind Mountain Yuzu Harvest Gin

Mountain Yuzu Harvest Gin is the latest release in our celebrated Harvest Series, this time shining a light on the vivid aromatics of mountain-grown yuzu. Handpicked in the cool alpine air of North East Victoria, the yuzu is cultivated on rich volcanic soils near Mt Buffalo by growers Jane and Brian Casey in the Ovens River. So, what does it take to grow yuzu in Australia? We sat down with Jane and Brian to find out.

How long have you been growing yuzu and why did you start?

We planted our first yuzu trees in 2012. Before that, we grew chestnuts, but in 2010, a disease forced us to destroy our orchard. This prompted us to explore other crops. As chestnut growers, we had experience exporting to Japan, where we were introduced to yuzu and fell in love with it. Seeing how well our backyard lemon tree thrived, we believed yuzu would also flourish in our environment.

What do you love most about growing yuzu?

I love that everyone who tries yuzu enjoys it. It truly brings people happiness, and there's immense joy in producing something that is so well-loved.

What makes yuzu particularly challenging or rewarding to grow compared to your other citrus?

Yuzu presents a unique challenge to grow. The branches have large, sharp spikes, and the fruit must be carefully cut, rather than simply picked, from the trees. This makes harvesting very time-consuming, and it can be difficult to retrieve fruit from within the tree without it getting spiked. Additionally, we wait until each fruit is perfectly ripe, meaning we often pass each tree multiple times during harvest since individual fruit ripen at different rates. The reward for this meticulous process is that the fruit is picked at its peak, then packed and sent to our customers as quickly as possible. We do not pick our yuzu green and ripen it in degreening rooms, though we do harvest a small amount of green yuzu specifically for those making yuzu kosho.

Yuzu also has a distinctive "on" and "off" year cycle, which complicates planning. Getting their nutritional requirements right has also been a challenge, as they differ from other citrus varieties and require specific nutrients at different times and in varying amounts. We are still learning!

What made you choose your location in the Upper Ovens Valley to grow yuzu?

We moved to our property from Melbourne in 1986 because we adored the area. Located near Bright in North East Victoria, it's a truly fantastic place to live. The natural environment here is beautiful; fresh air, clear mountain water and rich soil. It's a wonderful combination that lends itself to growing anything. It's a great community and we really enjoy being part of it.

Why has yuzu been considered 'rare' or 'exotic' in Australia?

I believe yuzu is considered rare and exotic worldwide. Until recently, fresh yuzu has only been available in small quantities in Australia, which has given it a certain mystique. It's such a new and interesting fruit here, and even the word "yuzu" itself sounds exotic!

How would you describe the flavours of your yuzu to someone who has never tried it?

Yuzu is difficult to describe because of its complexity, but I usually suggest it's somewhere between a mandarin, lime, and grapefruit.

What do you hope our customers experience when they taste the yuzu gin?

I hope they enjoy the light, fresh taste and get a distinctive hint of yuzu.

What did it feel like to transition from harvesting a few kilos to over 3 tonnes in just a few years?

Our first trees took a long time to start fruiting, and there were moments when we wondered if we would ever achieve significant yields. Then, they finally started producing. However, it hasn't always been smooth sailing; we've had a couple of years where our harvest wasn't as good. It seems yuzu requires different inputs compared to normal citrus, and timing is crucial. When we do get it right, seeing beautiful, perfect fruit in the trays gives us such a high and having a larger harvest means we can supply more fruit to our customers - happy customers = happy growers.

What excites you most about the future of native and specialty citrus in Australia?

Growing something new is exciting in itself. People are genuinely interested in trying new varieties of fruit and vegetables, and yuzu is a standout in this regard. I'm yet to meet anyone who doesn't like it. Australians embrace diverse foods, and the general enthusiasm for new products is infectious. It's hard not to be excited about the future of yuzu growing in Australia.